Earlier in the week, we hipped you to the fact that we’d be helping to host a special cooking event at ADE this week, in which we’d be gathering guest DJs, producers, and industry folks for a series of special presentations on their craft—alongside lots of delicious food and drink, of course. Well, today we present to you the fruits of yesterday’s meal.
The start of ADE and the foot traffic around the main streets of Amsterdam invited curious guests to step into the cookery school for three separate sessions of food—including surprise visits from Seth Troxler, Richie Hawtin, and various media folks. It was hectic and fun, and the smell of food wafted into the street in aromatic abundance.
Each cooking session ended with a rousing competition of Hungry Hungry Hippos, with Native Instruments, Beatport, and the chef of the moment competing for hippo dominance. Unfortunately, on the first day, Beatport was not crowned the winner a single time. Rigged!
Meal 1: Blond:Ish
About 20 lucky attendees got to hang for the first portion of Wednesday’s session, in which the two Canadian ladies and Kompakt signees known as Blond:Ish crafted a fine, Japanese-inspired ahi tuna tartare. Rising stars of the tech-house world, Blond:ish discussed how their career was kick-started with a chance signing at last year’s ADE. To what do they attribute the huge amount of great music coming out of Canada? Cold winters and the close networks of friends and family in the Canadian scene.
Meal 2: Funktion-One
The husband-wife duo of Tony and Ann Andrews, who own and operate soundsystem giant Funktion-One, baked a rich chocolate cake for a table of eager invitees curious to learn more about the brains behind one of the world’s most respected audio systems.
When it comes to food, the mostly vegetarian Tony Andrews say he likes stuff they “don’t have to cook—and foods like salads, fish.” And like all good Brits, he and the wife love beans on toast. Mexican food, too, actually. But naturally the conversation soon moved toward what the couple knows best—sound. While Ann stressed the importance of Funktion-One’s family vibe at the company HQ, Tony went into greater detail on the ongoing—and seemingly never-ending—debate over 320 MP3s vs. WAV vs. what have you—you know the drill. However, being the expert that he is, Andrews used some great visualizations to help attendees understand what actually happens with compression. “MP3s were a good idea in the ’90s,” he said, but then further explained that better-quality files should be the norm due to the reduced costs of storage, quality, and availability.
An interesting note on the testing of Funktion-One’s soundsystems: They rarely test their newly installed systems with dance music, but prefer to use orchestral music and heavily familiar and vocal songs. Tony says their soundsystem testing go-to’s include Diana Krall, George Benson, and, when they step into electronic music, Soul II Soul’s “Back to Life” and Gat Decor’s “Passion.”
Meal 3: Elliot Shaw + DC-10
As the day moved to night and more people arrived, wine flowed a bit more freely. Elliot Shaw, the promoter for Ibiza’s DC-10 and a face behind the Circo Loco parties, as well as the manager of Life & Death Records, prepared a wicked meal and kept the conversation friendly and fun: stories of the DC-10 closing party, the beach-related after-parties, and the after-after-parties. Shaw is much more proud of his cooking skills than any potential DJ skills, so he kept the musical chatter to a minimum, but he noted that he was massively impressed with the success of Jamie Jones’ Paradise parties at DC-10 and commented that he felt Danny Tenaglia had one of the best sets this season.
Blond:ish’s Ahi Tuna Tartare With Avocado, Crispy Shallots, Soy Sesame Dressing
(makes 30 appetizers)
For the tartare:
100 ounces fresh ahi tuna, diced
20 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
10 ripe Hass avocados, peeled and diced
5 tablespoon lemon juice
salt & freshly ground pepper
For the crispy shallots:
canola oil for frying
20 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
10 tablespoons flour
For the dressing:
15 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce
10 tablespoons mirin
5 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
5 tablespoon lemon juice
5 teaspoon hot sesame oil
5 teaspoon honey
3 inch tartlet ring, glasses to serve
Make the tartare: Toss the tuna with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss the avocado with lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.
Make the crispy shallots: Heat the oil in a medium saucepan. Toss the shallots in the flour and fry for 45 seconds, or until golden brown. Remove the shallots with a fine mesh strainer and drain on paper towels. Season with salt.
Make the dressing: Whisk together all the ingredients.
To assemble: Mold the avocado using a 3-inch tartlet ring. Mold the tuna tartare on top of the avocado and finish with the crispy shallots. Lift off the ring and drizzle the dressing around. Garnish with black sesame seeds, red jalapenos. Serve with potato chips or thin slices of toasted bread.microgreens
Ann and Tony Andrews’ sonic chocolate cake
(makes 24 small cakes)
For the cakes:
1000 g imported bittersweet chocolate (preferably El Rey or Valrhona), coarsely chopped
825 g tablespoons unsalted butter, cut in large pieces
15 large eggs
15 large egg yolks
250 g plus 10 tablespoons white granulated sugar
25 tablespoons all-purpose flour, sifted
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Butter and flour six 6-ounce custard cups.
Place 5 1/2 ounces of the chocolate and the butter in a metal bowl, and set it over a pan of simmering water. Stir until melted and smooth. Cool slightly.
Using a standard electric mixer with the whisk attachment, beat the eggs, yolks, and sugar at medium-high speed until they are pale and thick, about 10 minutes.
Reduce the speed, and gradually mix in the flour.
Add the chocolate mixture to the flour mixture, and continue to beat until thick and glossy, about 5 minutes.
Divide half of the mixture among the prepared custard cups. Divide the remaining 2 ounces of coarsely chopped chocolate among them, placing the chunks in the very center of the chocolate mixture (there should be about 1 tablespoon of chopped chocolate per custard cup). Then top with the rest of the chocolate batter.
Bake until the cake is set around the edges but the center jiggles slightly when the cup is moved, about 12 minutes. Cool slightly (no more than 5 minutes).
Run a sharp knife around the edges of the cups. Turn the cakes out onto plates, and serve.
For the sauce:
32 ounces semisweet chocolate, such as Valrhona Equatoriale, finely chopped
4 cup heavy cream
4 cup light corn syrup
Combine the cream and corn syrup in a small heavy nonreactive saucepan and bring to a simmer. Pour the liquid over the chocolate and allow it to sit for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the chocolate has melted. Whisk to combine. Allow the sauce to cool slightly, then pour onto cakes.
Elliott Shaw’s Saffron Risotto With Bacon
30 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 oz bone marrow, finely chopped
2.5 onions minced
5 lb Arborio rice
3.75 cup dry white wine
2.5 to 5 teaspoon saffron threads
about 25 cups simmering beef or chicken broth
30 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus additional cheese for serving
freshly ground black pepper
1 kg Italian bacon (guanciale if possible)
Spaghetti with Asparagus, Bacon, and Egg
32 ounces sliced bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces
16 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
8 medium onions, finely chopped
12 lbs asparagus, trimmed and cut on a long diagonal into 1/2-inch-thick slices
4 kg Italian spaghetti
4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano plus additional for serving